For SS11 the ADZ collection ‘Nebulayan’ debuts with a stunning collection of striking, unique prints. The prints have been created from illustrations from matellite thermal imaging of the Arctic and the Himalayas, placed on a background of photographs of deep space nebulae taken through the Hubble telescope.

The range is focussed around youthfully elegant, sexy and bold contemporary resort and daywear pieces in dramatic silhouettes, graphically contoured and exciting colour ways including fiery reds and leafy greens. The shapes are fluid and feminine with sustainable silk and tencel jersey draped into flattering dresses, with cowl necks and hoods. There are flippy city-shorts and fluttery tank-tops in chiffon. There are also body-conscious cycling shorts, cropped and extra-long leggings with a strong classic American sportswear influence.

The image shows a key piece from the collection – a beautiful jumpsuit engineered from fine black chiffon and a digital-print panel.

Retail price points range from £40 – £400

After Pure, the ADZ collection will be available to view by buyers at the London A La Mode from 4th August to 16th September at the Maverick Showroom, Redchurch Street, London – for further details please contact info@londonalamode.net

Prada disputed the reports, saying that the family still owns about 95% of the company, while the remaining 5% by italian bank banca intesa San Paolo. Interestingly, prada then announced a day later, that they agreed terms for a new €360m loan from a consortium of banks, in part to service an old loan while also to finance new store openings.

For most years, prada has been profitable. with collections that are loved by critics and consumers (not an easy feat to achieve acclaimed reviews and commercial success), it is not entirely a huge surprise. For the first quarter of 2010, prada reported sales of €366m, a 26% increase as compared to the same period in 2009. Earnings were up 480% from €11m to €60m. despite the stellar results in recent years, prada’s finances have always been a huge woe. In particular the huge debt that they are carrying. back in january, the debt stood at about €1.3 billion.

An astonishing amount of debt, for what is largely a privately owned company.

Eversince the financial bloodbaths of the investment banks, regulators and investors are not just interested about the sales and profits made (profit and loss statements), but also the resources used to achieve the sales (balance sheets). As prada is a privately owned company, financial data are not widely available. But it was suggested that the company was in debt as far back as 1998, which doesn’t really surprise me either since most companies would choose between debt or equity (shares issue), and for a company wishing to stay independent and private, prada chose to take on loans and debts.

Reading into the history of prada, i found it interesting that they actually acquired about 9.5% of shares in gucci back in 1998. With gucci being at the centre of a takeover war, prada sold their shareholdings to LVMH for a nice tidy profit. With prada’s debts, it was apparent that they were unable to mount a successful takeover of gucci, hence the sale of shares. however gucci resisted the further takeover attempts by LVMH, and sold the majority of their shareholdings to francois pinault, which now forms the crown jewel of the PPR empire.

The cordial relationship between Prada and LVMH post gucci shares sale continued into 1999. together, they bought 51% shareholdings in italian luxury house fendi for US$520m. However under pressure from their bankers to pay off the huge debts, in 2001 prada then sold their share in fendi to LVMH.

Besides the investment in gucci and fendi in the 90s, the more prominent investments from prada were the acquisitions of helmut lang and jil sander in 1999, which saw prada paying about US$100m each for the two companies. The move created a huge outcry, with many accusing lang and sander to be a sell-out to the more commercially driven prada. With the commercial acumen of patrizio bertelli at prada and the creative teams at lang and sander, the new structure should really work. But mergers and acquisitions often doesn’t take into account of human emotions. and we all knew lang and sander both walked out of their namesake companies.

It was again reported that under pressure from bankers to finance their loans, bertelli needed a quick turnaround for helmut lang and jil sander, hence the more commercial approach and introduction of logo emblazoned accessories from helmut lang not long after the prada takeover. Presumably under pressure to finance their loans, prada then sold their investment in helmut lang to current owners link theory, and jil sander to a private equity firm.

And it is interesting to see prada growing the company through acquisitions in the 90s, whereas other similar private companies the likes of armani and versace developed diffusion lines to grow organically.

The strategy of growing by acquisitions in the 90s seemed to have changed. Prada is now concentrating their efforts on growing prada mainline as well as diffusion line miu miu. there were earlier reports that prada needed to raise cash fast in order to service their loans. Is that the reason why we are seeing more lower priced and entry-level products, like the printed cotton bags above?

Is the need to desperately pay off loans the reason why we are seeing much more lower priced bags from prada mainline. I always maintain my view, that what we see in shops is not really a direct result of what is cutting edge or fashionable, but a byproduct of commercial decisions. Of course, prada sold the above bags alongside other expensive and exquisite creations, treading along what miuccia wants (high fashion) and what bertelli needs (erm, cash).

Very clever.

Prada could have concentrated on what they have on their plates at the moment and work towards paying off the huge loan. but they see china as a huge opportunity, a reason why they took on an additional €360m loan last week. Whis will allow them to finance the opening of new stores in china, which many agreed will be the biggest consumers of luxury products.

I personally think prada will do very well in the chinese market. if i can be crude and honest (that’s the difference between blogs and magazines, no?), the first generation of the new found wealth affluent chinese consumers are big on logos and the carrie bradshaw culture: “i want my money where i (and others) can see them.” i could be generalising and typecasting, but no offense intended. different cuts, different strokes. Prada, with the clever use of their triangular logo on their accessories, and miu miu with their logos etched on almost every of their bags, will certainly do very well in that market.

And prada knew. They collaborated with chinese artist yang fudong on a mini movie/campaign called “first spring” which was shot entirely in china. It is my favourite prada campaign to date, and one that fuses chinese heritage and cultures so well without appearing to be patronising like many of the other fashion houses out there.

We know accessories is the most profitable part of the luxury retail business. penetrating the new market will be vital to them staying afloat. and talking of float, the many talks of prada floating on the stock exchange could be soon. Markets are on the up, the successful float of the business would help repay prada’s loans and ease the financial pressures. That would mean relinquishing some of their 95% shareholding, but also an exit plan for bertelli and miuccia who are in their 60s.

So what is my point?

None really.

I just find it fascinating that prada is in so much debt. Profitable with sales but achieved through massive financing and borrowings. Perhaps we should really pay more attention to the resources used to generate the sales, at what sacrifice. But who am i to say their business model is flawed. For a family who wanted to keep the company private, control comes at a price.

It was reported that the company could be worth between €3 to €4 billion if it floats on the stock exchange. Not bad for a family run business huh? The feeling is perhaps not mutual now, but they will have the last laugh.

And oh, my point is i really really like the coat above, which i think is moleskin cotton with wool double layered collars. after all the ditterings above, i decided that will be my winter investment coat this year. The buyer for the london stores better pick that piece or else words will be had. that will be my little effort to help prada pay off the loans. You’re welcome, don’t mention it.

Even the number “11″ remained unchanged!

Maison Martin Margiela allocates a number to each of their lines:

menswear being number “10″,

womenswear “6″, shoes “22″,

and accessories “11″. hence the “11″ on margiela’s ring. i wonder what is the story behind asos’s “11″ ring.

LABB has been created to harvest and showcase emerging, often unheard of, talent in the fields of Fashion, Art and Photography. Each edition brings something and someone new to the reader and the second issue creates a platform for the work of new photographers, designers and models from Japan, Denmark, USA, Finland, Netherlands, Spain, Italy, India, Australia, Greece & UK.

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The LABB audience is the ‘boutique creative’ – an individual who is not content in seeing just the same well-known, high end names – the LABB reader wants to explore and get a little glimpse into something different. The Labb reader wants to discover and be the first to tell you all about it.

The vision for LABB is very simple, to be the Discovery Book. Generally the independent grass root, new talent magazine is small and pale in comparison to the others on the shelves, LABB wants to change that. They will bring fresh content in a format that is understood and respected, with a solid 400 plus page book each quarter. The LABB aim is to make sure people take note of what else the industry has to offer.

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Those mean looking PS11 bags, sister to PS1, get toughen up with square studs and more hardcore ‘bling’ hardware. Love the quilted version which seem like a ‘grungier’ sister to Chanel while the fur trim top flap style is street luxe with an edge!

There are also chain strap top handle handbags, with the one in croc invoking immense lust! Girls, sharpen your nails and be ready for some catfights at the stores if you want one of them!

As for shoe fanatics, those mean and tall ankle boots with side buckles are fabulous to spice up some biker cool. The heel design reminded me of Alexander Mcqueen’s infamous armadillo heels(Some top models were worried about the height and fit of those alien looking heels and hence turned down walking at his SS2010 show.). The height of these Proenza Schouler shoes do look intimidating as well!

Proenza Schouler is definitely a fashion force to keep your radar on. Fans in Singapore will get to shop their fill of Proenza Schouler when Club 21 stores add the brand to their ever expanding selection of labels. Hurray!

There are quite a number of styles to satisfy their ’schoolboy’ memories. Printed geometric patterns or camouflage patterns? Your pick!

Military theme is dominant in the collection. The camouflage pattern goes colourful on highly functional ‘Cordura’ duffels and has also been printed on Saffiano leather for slim flat totes which add some ‘grunge’ to your corporate looks! Deliberate tarnished effect are also applied around edges of small leather goods such as chain pouches and wallets to give it a unique vintage finish.

What’s most appealing to me, however, are the shoe collection with a selection of leather lace-ups, slip ons, brogues and boots. I love those slip ons that came with a fringe flap. The bi-coloured yellow and brown version somehow tickles my fancy. Same for the black version with a ‘riding-harness’ type metal hardware that wraps around the top of the shoe. Interesting details but never overpowering.

Looks like a trip to Prada stores is inevitable in the next couple of weeks!

Chanel went medieval for its fall haute couture collection as models took to the runway in oversize silhouettes, jewel tones and highly adorned garments.

With the order going up the social ladder from peasant chic to medieval princess, the collection certainly had its fair share of wow moments.

The brand’s creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, said the reoccurring theme of the lion was inspired by the house’s late founder, who was born in August under the sign of Leo.

After the new that Givechy stop the catwalks for haute couture we was really disappointed and sad by that new because we love Ricardo and we like the Givenchy’s looks.

But now we are happy because Ricardo show the collection to public, by photos offcorse. the collection has present in showroom when the customers, clients and press can go to see, touch and look the couture peaces.

Givenchy’s fall haute couture collection garnered a more intimate gathering this season with a special presentation consisting of ten looks with ten models. Riccardo Tisci, the label’s creative director, said of the change,

“I want to make couture even more special than it is, and not just another catwalk show.”

Gone are the black ensembles and dramatic makeup which are replaced with neutral shades and ornate details of lace and fringe. Topping off the look are sleek silhouettes and tailored jackets.

Models (and burlesque performer Dita von Teese) glided down the runway in dark ensembles that beckoned to the days of screen sirens with a modern twist of over-exaggerated shapes, leather and metallics.

It’s really amazing to see the pure haute couture made by leather and furs. The most people expect silk, lace and crystals when they think about the art of couture,, but the people of “The house of Martin Margiela” can make a different couture.

We like that the all of the outfits are made by leather and we love the pants. We like and the fur coats, but the must have from haute couture for fall of this year are the multicolored leather boots.

The thing that our team don’t like is the last outfit that remained the cowboy-girl old American outfit. the designer try to make it most Margiela, but it’s really different and looks more like “I want to be Margiela and I can make things like him”, but no, you can’t.